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1 Brown Cloths
A linen trade term for the cloths used by tailors and clothiers for linings, etc. The class includes buckram, holland, roughs, duck and canvas. All are plain weave. -
2 Brown Sheeting
Plain grey cloths, unfinished, of all weights, and 30-in. wide and upwards. A general term. Three qualities are as under: - 30-in., 64 X 60, 30's/24's; 36-in., 72 X 58, 34's/20's; 44-in., 72 X 56, 36's/24's. -
3 Brown Shirting
Plain grey cotton cloths, 26-in. to 40-in. wide, sized warps, and in all weights. A general term. -
4 Arabian Stripes
All-cotton plain weave cloths for sale in Arabia and districts adjoining. From 26-in. to 32-in. widths, coarse yams, and reed and pick from 48 square per inch, such as 48 X 48 X 13's/15's. The stripes are bars of brown and grey, or brown and white, in several widths. -
5 Hollands
The true hollands are made from flax yams. It originally was a very fine white linen used for shirts, but today this is not made. Brown Holland - 36-in. to 39-in., 48 ends and 48 picks per inch, loom state. White Holland - This is brown holland bleached and soft finished, and used for towels, linings, etc. Blind Hollands - 32-in. to 52-in. wide, coloured yarns, glazed finish, also in piece-dyed styles. All the above are made in numerous qualities, from flax yams about 32's lea warp and weft. The cotton imitations also vary greatly in quality, and the two cloths given are very fair standards, 40-in. to finish 37-in., 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 28's T., 40's W., bleached and glazed. Width 32-in. to 48-in., 60 ends and 60 picks per inch, 28's T., 40's W., woven from dyed yarns in stripes and checks. Mostly used for window blinds and aprons, but many good qualities are made for dress purposes. A fabric is shipped to India as holland," which is all cotton, woven from white warp and blue and white grandrelle weft, about 26-in. to 30-in. wide, 52/56 reed, 44/52 picks, 20's warp, 2/36's weft. -
6 Alpaca Wool
This is obtained from the domesticated alpaca, an animal resembling the angora goat, but smaller, and is variously white, reddish-brown, or black; fibre 6 to 8-in. long, with a uniform diameter, slightly wavy, smooth and fine. It is chiefly used for ladies' dress cloths and lounge jackets. Spun into counts 28's and heavier, also 2/40's and 2/36's from the finer wools. Hosiery yarns are also made from alpaca wool, mostly soft spun in natural shades. -
7 Camel Hair
The soft downy hair from the haunches and under part of the camel. Length of fibre is 4 in up to 10 in. The yarn is a soft worsted type and much used for carpets, hosiery, hatting, dressing gowns rugs etc. Spun into about 30's counts and then into two fold or three fold yarns. This hair is strong and soft and of a brown colour, and it is difficult to bleach. Each animal yields about 10-lb annually. The longer and coarser hair is used for belting. Obtained chiefly from China and Russia. On arrival in Bradford the hair is scoured carded and combed, and the tops and noils produced are a regular market article. There is a steady consumption of the long hair in the carpet industry and of the noils in the hosiery and hatting trades. A certain quantity of coarse hair is used in the belting industry, and a smaller amount is used in making waterproof hoods for motor cars. Dyed blends of strong hair and wool are sometimes called camel hair and are sold for making filter cloths and other mechanical services. The best " camel's hair brushes used by artists are said to be made from squirrel tails hair of the camel is almost never used for brushes. -
8 Camletine Yarns
Yarns spun from Scottish black face wools usually in three shades, light, medium and dark brown. Used in making lightweight cloths, such as for summer wear, palm beach cloth, suitings, etc. -
9 Chinese Cotton
Cotton grown in China and Siam and classified Gossypium religiosum. It yields a naturally coloured fibre, being rather dark yellowish-brown. Also known as Nankin cotton. The staple is about 1-in. The original nankeens were made from this cotton as well as the first khaki uniform cloths made for the soldiers of the Central India Horse. -
10 Glissade
Good quality lining cloths. The warp is 2/50's to 2/80's polished cotton and yam dyed or bleached, from 120 to 100 ends per inch. The weft is good quality, but not polished, 60 to 68 picks per inch, about 2/50's to 2/80's; or 40's to 60's warp, and 30's to 40's weft. Usually black ground with narrow white or coloured stripes. Brown grounds are also made. The weave is generally 8-shaft sateen. -
11 Grandrelle
A coloured cloth used for workmen's shirtings. The ground threads are usually 2/40's blue and white grandrelle, though 2/40's brown and white grandrelle is sometimes used. Designs are in stripes, usually white, red and navy blue in single 20's or 22's. Other colours are sometimes used, but not frequently. The weave is most often 5-end warp satin. The cloths are made 29-in. to 33-in. wide in many qualities, the best having bleached weft. Cheaper sorts have grey cop weft. Typical makes are: -
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12 Horse Hair
The long, lustrous hair from the tails and manes of horses. Cleaning, dressing and curling operations are carried on at many points, but the production of horse-hair textiles is confined virtually to the West of England. The hair is woven to make carriage and furniture seatings, interlinings, flesh rubbers, rugs and carpets. In Bradford some success has attended attempts to use horse hair as a core for worsted yarn for interlinings. In Worcester an old-established firm has succeeded in making a continuous thread of horse hair, which is then used as weft, in combination with a cotton or worsted warp. Horse-hair lining cloths are manufactured in Philadelphia (U.S.A.), the material is also worked in Germany, notably at Leipzig. Horse hair is sorted over suction screens, and is dyed black with logwood. The hair is curled by being twisted into a rope, soaked two hours in water, and then baked for twelve hours at 350 deg. F. The hair is left for three days to cool. Long white uncurled hairs are used for violin bows and shorter hairs of the same colour for brushes and plumes. Fishing lines are made from the brown hair, and selected lustreless hair is used for lawyers' wigs. The United Kingdom, North and South America, Australia, Germany, Russia and China are the chief sources of supply. -
13 Linen
Cloth made of flax. The fabrication of linen in England was not carried on to any great extent before the middle of the 16th century. It was made here in the time of the Anglo-Saxons. Linen was worn as garments for wear next to the skin. In the 14th and 15th centuries much linen was imported from abroad, cloth of Lake, cloth of Rennes, cloth of Ypres and of Gaunt, being specially mentioned. The linen most commonly noticed during the Middle Ages for wear was known as " Holland," the cloth woven in that country, and the name has descended to the present day. In the reign of Charles II an act was passed for the encouragement of the manufacturing of all kinds of linen cloth and tapestry made from hemp or flax. Linen fabrics are manufactured in numerous qualities, bleached, dyed or in natural colour. The varieties of the plain weave fabrics are: - Cambrics, handkerchiefs, lawns, pillow cloth sheetings, hollands, canvas, duck dress linens, brown linens, aeroplane linens, interlinings, sailcloth, scrims, crash, roughs and dowlas. These fabrics differ considerably in setting and yarns. Fancy weave cloths comprise diapers, damasks, honeycombs, huckabacks, drills, towels, etc. All the above fabrics are imitated in cotton and many are cheapened by using cotton warp and flax weft. ———————— One of the oldest known fabrics is that made from flax yarn and called linen. The Egyptians thought linen was an emblem of purity, and used it as a wrapping for their dead. By the term linen is generally meant a medium weight cloth with plain weave, and one that takes the same standing in the linen trade as calico does in the cotton trade. -
14 Pilot Cloth
A woollen goods term given to the indigo-blue dyed heavy overcoating cloth, used for seamen's coats, etc. Usually made with 4-shaft twill weave, 54-in. finished and dyed, principally dark blue, but brown, black and green are done. These cloths have a thick nap on the face. A typical cloth is made from 250 yard/oz. woollen crossband and 130 yard/oz. woollen crossband weft and weighs 36 oz. per yard. -
15 Subahia
A native East African name for cotton cloths woven in dark blue, brown and yellow checks with a wide border of silk and gold threads. -
16 Trouserings
Coloured striped or checked cotton fabrics used in India, the Philippines, Egypt, and many South American markets for trousers. Generally made from coloured yarns in drab, black, brown, and blue, from 27-in. to 48-in. wide, plain and twill weaves. The cloths are sometimes raised on the back. A fair style is 64 ends and 48 picks per inch, 30's warp, 24's weft. Another cloth has 90 ends and 84 picks per inch, 36's warp, 32's weft; and a better cloth 80 ends and 74 picks per inch, 2/40's warp, 16's weft.
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